The Oldest Pyramids: Saqqara & Dashur

Before leaving Egypt, we wanted to see some of the oldest of the pyramids. So, today our travels took us to Saqqara and Dashur both about an hour out of Cairo. Although The Rough Guide described how we could get out there independently, it didn’t look at all easy and probably wouldn’t be worth the hours of effort it would take. As we did in Luxor, we hired a car and driver for the half day excursion which again cost 200 L$ or $33 US. Considering it was nearly a six hour trip” the easy way”, I fear that we might still be out there working our way back had we tried it on our own. Since we also hit the first rain of our trip, our decision to go by car more than paid off.

Saqqara is one of the oldest pyramid sites in Egypt. It was here that Pharaoh Zoser started the whole pyramid building thing back in 2650 BCE. His step pyramid was the largest structure at the time ever built in stone.  This 180 foot high structure consists of four mastaba, rectangular solid stone buildings, placed one upon one another in descending size resembling a pyramid. Deep inside, as is true with most pyramids, was Zoser’s burial chamber.

Zoser's Step Pyramid in Saqqara

Throughout this area, numerous tombs have been discovered and excavated. Even more impressive than the step pyramid was the Mastaba of Ti just a few hundred yards away. Painted, relief carvings cover the walls from floor to ceiling depicting fishing, the feeding of cranes and geese, butchering an ox, market life, and musicians entertaining Ti.

Painted relief carving inside the Mastaba of Ti

Although the sign clearly forbid taking photos, the caretaker aggressively encouraged photography. We have come to know very well that a little baksheesh (a tip) will get you almost anything here in Egypt. More than one policeman suggested that we” help him out” for simply giving us directions.

We trundled a ways into the desert to reach the Mastaba of Ti. It must have been a bit like how Lawrence of Arabia felt as he rode across the Sahara.

We're not lost! All these sand dunes look alike. Let me check the guide book for directions.

 Further down the road was our second stop of the day at Dashur. Although we only visited the two major pyramids here, others could be seen off in the distance. Snofru’s Red Pyramid is only second in size to the Great Pyramid of Cheops in Giza. This pyramid gets its name from the color of the limestone used in its construction. One is also allowed to climb up to the entrance that accesses the inside burial chambers and then descend inside.  Most pleasant, there were no crowds here as we found at Giza. The serenity of the experience was very pleasing. The second pyramid here, the Bent Pyramid, was equally impressive.

Nancy at the Red Pyramid

From Saqqara, it is possible to cross the desert back to Giza in real Bedouin style. We thought it best to save some fun for our next trip

Where in heavens could I have bounced Nancy off?

As we have also found out, you should never judge a book by its cover. We have found some of the most delightful eateries that outwardly by their look would suggest that you just keep on walking. On the way back to Cairo our driver suggested that we stop for falafel sandwiches at a small take away place before getting back on the highway. Wow, delish! Lunch for the three of us, including bottled drinks, cost 16L$ or just $2.60 US. This was our best deal of the trip!

Tomorrow: Heading Home