The Valley of the Kings

Our hotel, the Sheherazade, has turned out to be the Jewel of the Nile. In addition to a lovely, modern room, the staff here couldn't be friendlier. Diner here last night at the hotel, was one of the best meals that we've had in Egypt. Soup, mezze (tahini dip along and tomato and cucumber salad), flatbread, bowls of rice, vegetables, and a very tasty mild lamb, and desert (bamoussa - a very sweet cake) was 90L$ or just $15 US for two. Oink! oink!

By US standards, many things here in Egypt are very inexpensive. For example, due to remote locations and the scarcity of taxis outside the village, we hired a car and driver to take us to the tombs and temples today. We rented the car for just half a day (five hours) for the grand sum of 200L$ or just $35 US. The luxory of being dropped off at each entrance and then being picked up at a determined time was an indulgence we both very much enjoyed. Our driver spoke some English and was arranged for us by the hotel. Just touring for half a day was a good decision. Even though it is winter, the sun at mid-day is very intense. After three tomb and temple sites, we were ready to return to the holel for lunch and a bit of rest.

Our only disappointment today was that we were not allowed to bring our camera into the Valley of the Kings. From our pictures at Hatshepsut's Temple (pronounced like "hot chicken soup") you'll have a sense of the austere landscape used for the royal burials. Nonetheless, what an amazing visit to get to go down into the tombs. Our admission ticket (80L$ or $12 US) entitled us to go down into three tombs (we would have stayed there all day and gone into one after another if it had been possible). In most of the tombs, you descend stairs far into the hillside until you reach the burial chambers. Most still have well preserved painted hieroglyphs and illustrations on the walls and ceilings primarily related to the pharoah's voyage into the afterlife. A number of sarcophagi still exist in place where they were found. Although the tombs might cause a few problems for the claustraphobic, because of the crowds, we weren't down in any one tomb for very long.

Queen Hatshepsut's Temple (she was a pharaoh for a reign of 15 years) was our next stop. Crowds this time of year are big everywhere. However, with temperatures well over 100 degrees in July and August, we understand why this is peak tourist season (plus it's holiday time for many people).

Just like a second honeymoon!

Colossal architecture and walls covered with painted and carved hieroglyphs again characterize this temple.

Queen Hatshepsut

Our third and final stop of the morning took us to Madinat Habu or the great temple of Ramesses III (1182-1151 BCE). Similar to what we found at Luxor, the entrance to the temple is marked by two intimidating walls setting the tone for what would be found inside.

The entrance at Habu Temple

We have become more and more impressed by both the quality and the quantity of Egyptian art that has survived over 3,500 years. Due to the desert climate where most of the ruins are found, good preservation has been possible giving us a wonderful glimpse of not only the art of the ancients, but of their way of life as well.

Just part of one completely covered hieroglyphic wall inside the temple.

Doesn't Nancy take a good picture?

Our time here in Luxor has gone by very quickly. After three action packed days, we take the night train back to Cairo later today. Karnak Temple will be our last major stop before heading north.

Tomorrow: Egyptian Hospitality